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On the west of
the fort are a group of havelis know
numerically as aath havelis, aath meaning eight. The frescos on
these havelis are not the best examples but they show the transition
in painting styles through the
periods. One of the paintings depicts a steam locomotive while other
show mammoth images of elephants, horses and camels. Opposite these
havelis is situated the Muraraka Haveli, which shows off some very
fine painting
including the miniature paintings from the Krishna legends. The
haveli is has no occupants and the courtyard is usually locked
unless some function is taking place. To the north is Hem Raj Kulwal
Haveli. Built in 1931 the haveli depicts at the entrance portraits
of the Kulwal family and also that Indian leaders like Gandhi and
Nehru. The windows are bordered by very colourful architraves. An
ornate silver gate leads to the inner courtyard, which has some fine
paintings mostly of religious themes. A local caretaker will let you
in for a small tip. Quite close to it is the Khedwal Bhawan, which
features some striking mirror and blue tile work at the entrance to
the inner courtyard. Some frescos depicting a locomotive engine
crossing a bridge and a woman on a swing in festivities of Teej
Festival are seen on some of the walls.
Also seen is the story of
legendary lovers Dhola Maru on an outside wall. Morarka Haveli,
which thrown open its doors to public only recently charges Rs 75
for entrance. The haveli displays some very well preserved paintings
of Ramayana legends. Other notable havelis are Bhagton ki choti
Haveli, Parusrampuria Haveli, Dharni Dhakra Haveli, Chhauchharia
Haveli, Hira Lal Sarowgi Haveli and Geevrajka Haveli. Dr Ramnath A
Poddar Haveli Museum, admission Rs 40, active maintains and adds new
wall paintings. Though some painting may be of doubtful legitimacy.
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